Embracing Tradition: The Resilient Padang Women of Northwest Thailand

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Nestled in Northwest Thailand, close to the Burmese border, lies a unique refugee camp that harbors an extraordinary tribe. Known for their elongated necks and adorned limbs, the Padang women have captivated the world with their distinct tradition. For centuries, these women have carried the tribe’s mark: the collar known as "Wang." This tradition, though painful, is a profound symbol of their identity and resilience.


The journey of wearing the Wang begins in childhood. Padang girls start the painful process when their bones are small and flexible. Even at a young age, the coils chafe their skin. To achieve the elongated neck look of their elders, these girls must return every few years to have more coils added. The collar continues to hurt, but for Padang girls, pain is a requirement of belonging.


Contrary to popular belief, the long neck look is an illusion. The rings do not actually lengthen the neck. Instead, they push down on the shoulders and chest, causing the rib cage to cave in and the collarbones to collapse. This pressure makes the neck appear longer. What might seem masochistic to outsiders is, to the Padang, a signature mark of a tribeswoman.


The Wang, once a proud mark of identity, also became a reason for persecution in their homeland of Burma (now Myanmar). In 1962, the military seized control of the country, promising modernization. The new leaders deemed tribal customs primitive and outlawed them, including the Wang. To maintain their identity and escape civil war, the Padang and other tribes fled to neighboring Thailand.


Although safe from war, the tribe is now caught between two countries and two worlds. Housed in refugee camps, the Padang have drawn crowds of Western tourists who travel to witness their ancient ways. Unexpectedly, what was once a persecuted mark of identity has become a profitable way to make a living.


Today, Maang, a Padang woman, will have the opportunity to see herself without her brass collar for the first time in a decade. The process of removing the rings takes close to an hour of pulling at the brass before they can be lifted from her shoulders. Astonished at how light she feels, Maang expresses her feelings through Maja, as she only speaks the Burmese dialect.


"We never get to see what the neck looks like, so we want to have a look and see how it turned out," Maja translates for Maang. For outsiders, it’s incredible to imagine never seeing one’s own neck. For Maang, it’s a transformative experience. She wants to dress up in regular clothes, let her hair down, and see if she looks pretty.


As excited as she is to try on a new identity, Maang eagerly returns to her old one. It may be years, even decades, before she sees her neck again. "This is our tradition, so it does not feel strange," she says. For Maang, the embrace of the coil metal is a passage back to who she is, not a restriction on who she might be.


As refugees, the Padang have endured much to preserve their culture and customs. Today, these rings of brass represent one tribe’s commitment to a future that does not sacrifice its past. The Padang women, with their stretched necks and shackled limbs, continue to stand as a testament to the strength and resilience of their heritage.


In a world that constantly changes, the Padang women remind us of the importance of holding onto our traditions, no matter how painful or challenging they may be. Their story is not just about enduring pain; it’s about embracing identity, preserving culture, and finding strength in tradition.

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